If you’re working through my Granny Remix Socks pattern, this post is here to help you achieve heels and toes that look neat, balanced, and symmetrical. In the pattern, these sections are worked in spiral rounds using the Yarn Under technique, which creates a denser, more durable fabric and helps keep your markers aligned and straight on both sides.
That said, Yarn Under doesn’t always behave perfectly for every crocheter (and that’s totally okay). Sometimes a slight twist or shift can come from the yarn's natural twist rather than your technique, and in most cases, it settles in nicely once you add the surrounding granny stitches or block your socks.
In this article, I'll first guide you through starting your heels and toes smoothly with continuous spiral rounds (Part 1). Then, I'll share an easy troubleshooting alternative - joining rounds and turning your work each round to maintain perfect alignment (Part 2).
Part 1 - Spiral Rounds
Let’s start your heels and toes in spiral rounds. As in the pattern, you’ll work around both sides of the foundation chain using the Yarn Under technique, and keep going in continuous spiral rounds without joining. The increases are stacked on top of each other by working 3 single crochets into the center stitch of the 3-sc group below, creating pointy increases on each side (instead of rounded, oval-shaped edges).
Note: The traditional Yarn Over single crochet can slowly drift to one side (each round shifts a tiny bit to the right for right-handers or to the left for left-handers). This may cause your markers to drift and affect symmetry. If that happens, scroll down to Part 2 – Joined Rounds Made Easy for an easy workaround.
To begin, make your foundation chain as indicated, then we’ll work Rnd 1:
- Sc in the second ch from hook and place your beginning marker to mark the first stitch.
- Sc across to the last ch. Work 3 sc in the last ch and place a side marker in the center stitch of that 3-sc group.
- Now, work across the other side of the foundation chain: sc in each ch to the last one, then 2 sc in the last ch and place a side marker in that last stitch. Don’t join; this is spiral rounds, so we’ll just keep going!

- Sc in the first stitch of the previous round and move your beg marker to show the first stitch of this round.
- Sc to the next side marker, then 3 sc in the stitch with the marker, moving the marker to the center stitch of that 3-sc group.
- Repeat on the other side, ending at the next side marker.

- Sc to the next side marker, work 3 sc in the stitch with the marker, and move the marker to the center stitch of that 3-sc group.
- Repeat on the other side.
- Sc in the last stitch to finish the round.
- Sc to the next side marker, work 3 sc in the stitch with the marker, and reposition the marker in the center stitch.
- Repeat on the other side, then sc in each stitch to the end.
- Just keep working as you did in Rnd 4, stacking the increases on each side as established.

Part 2 – Joined Rounds Made Easy
If spiral rounds feel tricky (maybe the Yarn Under technique is hard to keep consistent, or your yarn just has a mind of its own), there's an easy workaround. You can join rounds and turn your work at the end of each round instead of working in a spiral. Then simply begin the next round with a ch-1. Turning flips the slant back and forth, so it cancels itself out. It’s a simple tweak that keeps everything nicely aligned. Let’s walk through it.
Rnd 1 (RS):
- Work Rnd 1 as usual. Then join with a slip stitch in the first stitch with the marker and turn your work.

Rnd 2 (WS):
You’re now on the wrong side. Ch 1 to begin (this does not count as a stitch).
- Skip the join and work 3 sc in the stitch with the side marker (this is the last stitch of Rnd 1). Move the side marker into the center stitch of the 3-sc group. Also, reposition the beginning marker into the first stitch of the 3-sc group to mark the first stitch of this round.
- Sc across the next side to marker, work 3 sc in the stitch with the marker, and move the marker into the center stitch.
- Sc to the end, then join with a slip stitch into the beginning stitch and turn.

Rnd 3 (RS):
You’re now on the right side. Ch 1 to begin. Skip the join and work your first sc in the last stitch of Rnd 2.
- Sc to the next side marker, work 3 sc in the stitch with the marker, and reposition the marker in the center stitch.
- Repeat on the other side, then sc across to the end.
- Join with a slip stitch and turn.

Rnd 4:
- Ch 1 to begin, skip the join, and work your first sc in the last stitch of Rnd 3.
- Sc to the next side marker, work 3 sc in the stitch with the marker, and move the marker into the center stitch.
- Repeat on the other side, then sc across to the end.
- Join with a slip stitch and turn.

Next Rnds:
Continue working by joining and turning as in Rnd 4, stacking the increases on each side as established.
From Technique to Finished Socks
Now that your heels and toes are neat, symmetrical, and ready for the surrounding granny stitches, you’re all set to continue with the Granny Remix Socks pattern. Whether you worked in spiral rounds or used joined and turned rounds, your socks should look balanced and beautiful.
Ready to finish your first pair? Grab the full Granny Remix Socks pattern here. It includes detailed instructions for 8 sizes (toddler to XL adult), step-by-step photos, diagrams, and everything you need for durable, comfy toe-up socks (also available on Ravelry).
Happy crocheting!
